
The wave equation started off describing movement of physical stuff but it is much more powerful than that.

The waves created by different tensions of the string produce different notes – think of how the sound from a plucked string can be changed as it is tightened or loosened. Some decades later, mathematician Jean Le Rond d'Alembert generalised the string problem to write down the wave equation, in which he found that the acceleration of any segment of the string was proportional to the tension acting on it. A violin string (or a string on any instrument, for that matter) vibrates in transverse waves along its length, which creates longitudinal waves in the surrounding air, which our ears interpret as sound. Applying Isaac Newton's laws of motion for the individual masses showed him that the simplest shape for vibrating violin string, fixed at each end, would be the gentle arc of a single sine curve. In the 1720s, he worked out the maths of a string as it vibrated by imagining the string was composed of a huge number of tiny masses, all connected with springs.
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Among many others, Daniel Bernoulli, Jean le Rond d'Alembert, Leonhard Euler, and Joseph-Louis Lagrange realised that there was a similarity in the maths of how to describe waves in strings, across surfaces and through solids and fluids.īernoulli, a Swiss mathematician, began by trying to understand how a violin string made sound. The wave equation had a long genesis, with scientists from many fields circling around its mathematics across the centuries. For a wave moving across the surface of a sea, the equation relates how fast a tiny piece of water is physically deforming, at any particular instant, in space (on the left) and time (on the right). Also on the right is the velocity of the wave (v). On the left is the expression for how fast the material is deforming (y) in space (x) at any given instant on the right is a description for how fast the material is changing in time (t) at that same instant. The curly "d" symbols scattered through the equation are mathematical functions known as partial differentials, a way to measure the rate of change of a specific property of the system with respect to another. The one-dimensional wave equation (pictured) describes how much any material is displaced, over time, as the wave proceeds. They are not shifted, en masse, in the direction of the wave. In both cases, the water or air molecules remain, largely, in the same place as they started, as the wave travels through the material. Loudspeakers, for example, move air molecules back and forth in the same direction as the vibration of the speaker cone.


Sound waves are known as "longitudinal" because the medium in which they travel – air, water or whatever else – vibrates in the same direction as the wave itself. A vertical cross-section of the wave would look like a familiar sine curve. The resulting wave is called "transverse" because it travels out from the point the stone sank, while the molecules themselves move in the perpendicular direction. Looking from above, circular waves radiate out from the point where the stone hits the water, as the energy of the collision makes water molecules around it move up and down in unison. Think of the ripples on the surface of a pond when you throw in a stone.
